The Palma Capicola Method

Lou Palma's 2010 CapicolaOld homes are examples of inimitable craftsmanship and charm.  Similarly, old world foods – specifically cured pork- are characterized by flavors of authenticity, uncommon tenderness, and a rich palate.  More than this, old world food exhibits love.

But the  artisanal approach to curing meat is not all Romance.  There is an essential method.  An unerring, mechanical, calculated, recipe to creating a masterpiece of cured pork. 

I was lucky enough to learn how to create superb capicola from the gastro-mechanic himself, Lou Palma.  If you’re the type of foodie to swoon at the sight of  aged, cured pork hanging from your rafters, read on and follow these steps precisely, and watch the master at work in video below:

The first step to curing capicola is to obtain pork butts, ideally Berkshire.  Why Berkshire?

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Prosciutto di Palma - The Larding

We've arrived at the final stage of the Lou Palma Prosciutto Project - the larding!

Lou insists that real animal fat be used.  Not vegetable shortening!  To make the lard more spreadable, Lou dilutes it with a little water and a little flour.

The larding stage is essential to keep the portion of the pig that is skinless, soft during aging.  The layer of lard simulates a protective, fatty skin and allows for even aging.

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Prosciutto di Palma - The Hanging

About one month following the curing of our Berkshire pigs, I headed back to Lou Palma’s garage for the hanging.

During this stage the pig legs are removed from the plastic bags and patted dry. A rope is then tied to the end of the leg and hung from large hooks in the rafters of the garage.

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Prosciutto di Palma - The Pressing

Two weeks ago, in HFTK’s first segment of Prosciutto di Palma, we visited our partner in pork, Rob Nicolosi, at Nicolosi Foods, and procured our Berkshire pig – today we’re going to cure the pig.

Curing is amazingly simple – easy as 1,2,3. First, the pig leg is covered with Kosher salt. Then it’s wrapped in a plastic bag. Finally the uncured pork is pressed one day for each pound. For example, if you’re curing a 25 pound pig leg, according to Lou’s method, it should be pressed for 25 days.

The most intricate part of the undertaking is the pressing. This year, Lou is using a custom press, built and designed for him by Steve Cozzolino of Cozzolino Furniture Design.

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Hot From The Kettle: Prosciutto di . . . "Palma"?

The first food piece I wrote for our fine hyperlocal blog was Prosciutto de Baristaville, wherein I bemoaned the failure of my first prosciutto.

Shortly after the article ran, I was contacted by Montclair foodie and author, Laura Schenone. She suggested I contact the pork curing maestro, Lou Palma. I immediately emailed Lou, and the rest is Baristanet history – ravioli, Christmas Peppers, and now, Prosciutto di “Palma”.

On Decmeber 8, 2010, I took a trip with my favorite sidekick to Nicolosi Foods in Union City to procure what Lou calls, “the finest pork known to man,” the Berkshire pig.

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